Alber Elbaz Is Back in Fashion - The New York Times |
- Alber Elbaz Is Back in Fashion - The New York Times
- Mexico Fashion Week: Showcasing the work of contemporary designers and traditional artisans - CNN
- Over 100 Women Wore This UK-Based Jewelry Brand During Fashion Week - Refinery29
- How Top Fashion Influencer Elle Ferguson Leveraged Her 670K Instagram Followers To Create A Global Brand - Forbes
- The Biggest Winter Fashion Trends, According to the Experts - ELLE.com
| Alber Elbaz Is Back in Fashion - The New York Times Posted: 25 Oct 2019 12:36 PM PDT  Alber Elbaz is ready for his comeback. On Friday, Richemont, the Swiss luxury group, announced that it had entered into a partnership with Mr. Elbaz, the former Lanvin designer whose abrupt firing in 2015 after a falling out with the owner of the brand became for many a symbol of what was wrong with the fashion world. Now Mr. Elbaz is aiming to set things right. Called AZfashion, the company will be that rare thing in the European high-end fashion space: a new brand. With, possibly, a new approach to the industry. "It's a start-up," Mr. Elbaz said on the phone from Paris. "I just signed an hour ago. My heart is still beating, and I haven't even had any Champagne." He also didn't have too many details about exactly what shape the new brand would take, other than to say it would be "project based." "We are not going to do pre-collections, collections, post-collections," he said. "It's going to be about things I believe are relevant to make. We are just beginning now. And we are beginning really, really small. I like the idea of starting small today." The company, which is described as a joint venture, — though Mr. Elbaz said Richemont was the majority owner — will be based in Paris. "I didn't want to call it Alber Elbaz, because it's not about me, myself and I," he said. "It's going to be about we and us. And it's going to go from A to Z." (He means that literally and metaphorically: The name is composed of the first and last letters of his name, and also refers to his approach.) It is also going to be about luxury, but, he said, "today luxury is not just about price." Mr. Elbaz, 58, who during his 14-year tenure at Lanvin became synonymous with a certain grace and generosity of aesthetic, and who was widely beloved in the industry both for his skill with a seam and his willingness to embrace and express his own neuroses, has been largely off the fashion map for the last four years. Though he became active on Instagram after leaving Lanvin (he has about 124,000 followers), did the occasional collaboration — with LeSportsac and, more recently, Tod's — and though his name was often raised in speculation when top designer jobs became available, he often seemed ambivalent about re-entering the modern fashion industry, one driven by social media, influencers and a constant stream of product. Indeed, he has been one of its most vocal critics. Which makes it interesting that he chose to make his comeback via a deal with Richemont, one of the big three global luxury groups, along with LVMH and Kering, but one that is focused on watches and jewelry. (Richemont owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget, among others.) AZfashion will be one of only a handful of clothing brands in the conglomerate, along with Chloé, Alaïa and Dunhill. (Richemont also owns Yoox Net-a-Porter Group.) Though Richemont is often viewed as being less comfortable with fashion than with jewelry, and has struggled with some of its ready-to-wear brands, the company also has a tendency to treat them as jewels unto themselves. In a news release, Johann Rupert, the chairman of Richemont, said: "Upon hearing Alber Elbaz describe his vision for fashion and the projects it inspires in him, I was again struck by his creativity and insight. His talent and inventiveness, with his sensitivity toward women and their well-being, will be of great value to our group and its maisons." Mr. Elbaz, who said he "knew almost no one from Richemont" in his previous fashion life, said he had met Mr. Rupert in August, and the deal had come together very quickly, based on "mutual respect and trust," qualities he noted he had learned were very important after his Lanvin experience. "Time, for all of us designers, is the most important ingredient: time to think, to dream, to see, to produce, and that's what they are going to give me," he said. "Plus some resources." Neither Mr. Elbaz nor Richemont provided any details about when the first of the AZfashion projects would appear, or what form they would take. Still, one thing is certain: Given Mr. Elbaz's reputation, everyone will be watching. If he does succeed in disrupting the system, either in the way he shows his work or in how he defines a collection, it could have a domino effect on other designers, freeing them up to experiment with different structures and expectations. And freeing up their backers to believe that starting a new brand with a talented creative is a worthwhile bet, rather than simply trying to match a designer with a heritage house. At the moment, however, "it is time for me to go back to work and realize my dreams and hire some people," Mr. Elbaz said.  |
| Mexico Fashion Week: Showcasing the work of contemporary designers and traditional artisans - CNN Posted: 25 Oct 2019 04:02 AM PDT [unable to retrieve full-text content]Mexico Fashion Week: Showcasing the work of contemporary designers and traditional artisans CNN  |
| Over 100 Women Wore This UK-Based Jewelry Brand During Fashion Week - Refinery29 Posted: 25 Oct 2019 02:35 PM PDT  Since the first Missoma x Lucy Williams collection sold out four years ago, pieces from the line have been spotted on the likes of both Hadid sisters, Ashley Graham, Caroline Daur, and more. Ahead, see just how many Missoma originals made their way to the streets of fashion month during the SS20 season and maybe, just maybe, shop a few pieces of your own.  |
| Posted: 25 Oct 2019 02:43 PM PDT  Elle Ferguson, global influencer and founder of Elle Effect, Photo Credit: Jennifer Stenglein Photo Credit: Jennifer StengleinIf you were wondering how to monetize a business and build a brand from a global social media following, look no further than influencer Elle Ferguson. The Australian based digital entrepreneur first rose to fame via the acclaimed fashion and lifestyle site They All Hate Us, and cultivated her own Instagram following by showcasing an instantly recognizable aesthetic while establishing an authentic connection with her now close to 675K followers. After several collaborations with fashion brands, Ferguson pivoted from influencer to beauty founder and created Elle Effect in 2018: a line of vegan sunless tanning products. The first product is the rose-scented Tanning Mousse, and it has already received critical acclaim from the likes of Jen Atkin, and influencers-turned-beauty entrepreneurs Kim Kardashian West and Marianna Hewitt. Ferguson might have come into the spotlight thanks to her fashion aesthetic, but it's her university degree in design and architecture that helped pave the way for a keen eye in branding: "So much that I learned about design and architecture gets put into play. I studied color therapy and color history, which is everything I do now as a founder. I always say 'knowledge is power,' and I apply everything." Staying true to the effortless, "beach girl who means business" aesthetic she became known for on her personal Instagram also inspired Ferguson when it came to creating the packaging for Elle Effect. "I really wanted the brand to be authentically me and wanted it to look amazing on anyone's shelf. I looked at it the same way I look at fashion: I'm a 'white T-shirt and a pair of denim shorts kind of gal', and when I look at the branding of the Elle Effect's bottle, it reminds me of the effortless vibe of a white T-shirt and pair of denim shorts – since the bottle itself is like a blank canvas – and then the stickers that come inside the packaging to customize your bottle are like the accessories." Ferguson honed her fashion skills when she got a job as the national visual merchandiser for denim brand One Teaspoon, right out of university. Ironically, she got the job when someone from the brand attended her end-of-year design exhibition. While balancing a fashion career on the corporate side, she cofounded the outrageously popular "It girl" fashion site, They All Hate Us. The blog gave Ferguson even more fashion clout and led to a global audience: "When we launched They All Hate Us, we were the top blog in Australia – nobody was doing what we were doing. All of a sudden, people wanted to know who I was and what I was wearing. At this point, we were known in Australia – and then when the blog launched, followed by Instagram, it gave me the opportunity to sit on a global platform and be reactive at the same time as everybody else in the industry. It broke down the barriers and allowed me to talk to a global fashion-hungry audience without the delay, in real time." After successful collaborations with sunglasses brand Quay and Billabong, as well as partnerships with global fashion brands, she felt the timing was right to launch her namesake brand: Elle Effect. "I actually remember the moment. I worked with a whole heap of brands, globally and locally, and I caught wind of one of the brands I had worked with and how much product I actually sold for this brand – and I had a breakthrough and thought, you know what, I need to start doing this for myself. Then I actually was on set in Venice Beach with Jen Atkin and a team shooting the first-ever Ouai campaign, and all the girls were sharing their female founder stories, and I remember walking out of the van and saying to myself, I think this is my plan. I've listened enough. I've worked enough, I saved enough money, it's my time right now to take that leap of faith and create my own brand. It's my time now to do it." Speaking of Jen Atkin – the Ouai and Mane Addicts founder is a huge inspiration and mentor to Ferguson. The way their relationship came about is proof that Instagram can serve as a great business relationship tool: "Jen [Atkin] reached out to me, probably five years ago, on Instagram and said she's a huge fan, and I thought it was a fake account! I ended up meeting her and it was so humbling to have somebody like her turn around and say, 'I find you so inspiring, I love what you do.'" Atkin gave Ferguson an important piece of advice: to take the time to personally reply to all direct messages on Instagram. As a result, Ferguson schedules blocks of time every day, to reply to messages from her personal "Elle Ferguson" and "Elle Effect" Instagram accounts. "I always answer my DMs. That community has enabled me to build my brand. So I take probably three hours, morning and evening, to reply to my DMs on Elle Effect and Elle Ferguson, because essentially they're my customers – it's so important to ensure that relationship is strong."  Elle Ferguson, founder of Elle Effect sunless tanning brand, Photo Credit: Nicole Bentley Photo Credit: Nicole BentleyWhen Ferguson decided to pivot from influencer to founder, many people in her circle suggested she create her own fashion line, since that's her background. "To me, there were three things that kept coming up whenever I did focus groups to see what people associated with the name 'Elle Ferguson', and it was always 'tan, blond hair and denim shorts'. What attracted me to launching a beauty line and working on my first tanning product, was that I wanted to make sure it would appeal to men and women, any age, and any size." Ferguson's latest and widest collection with the surf culture-inspired brand Billabong launched this October; the 10-item range represents her first time designing footwear (she designed all the patents). And while she's expanding her Elle Effect brand, Ferguson stays focused by staying true to the habits that have helped her cultivate a massive Instagram following and international acclaim. "Have courage and be kind. I say that at least three times a day. And attention to detail. It's how you respond to emails, how you respond to people – it's all-encompassing. And never give up. Never. Along the way, a lot of female founders and entrepreneurs are told they can't do it, but you just have to keep going."  |
| The Biggest Winter Fashion Trends, According to the Experts - ELLE.com Posted: 25 Oct 2019 10:00 AM PDT  Edward BerthelotGetty Images We love a sleeping bag masquerading as a puffer coat, but there's no need to give up on all style when the temperature drops. We tapped five buying experts from your favorite fashion companies to weigh in on the hottest winter trends. They detailed the newest in outerwear, strategic layering tips, items worth the investment, and more. Read on to see what women who are leading the vision at Nordstrom, MatchesFashion, Bloomingdale's, Browns, and Moda Opernadi have to say about what's hot when it's cold. Investment Tailoring Tyler Joe The majority of the buyers we sourced are investing in this trend, literally, because tailored pieces will last a lifetime. "More and more, I'm working toward an idea of a 'forever wardrobe,' focusing on pieces that I absolutely love and know I will love for years to come," says Natalie Kingham, the fashion and buying director at MatchesFashion. "Investing in winter essentials such as a pair of well-tailored wool trousers, chunky cashmere knits and a classic white shirt will be the sorts of pieces that last from season to season." Ida Petersson, the buying director at Browns, agrees. "One of the biggest fashion trends for winter is tailoring. It's a key investment not just for now, but it will carry you through to spring [and] summer." Kickstart this trend with a classic blazer. "The blazer [is] part of our daily uniform, and one of the hardest-working items in my personal wardrobe," says Lisa Aiken, the fashion director of Moda Operandi. She suggests keeping the look modern with this simple trick: "A nice update for this season (and beyond) is cinching the waist with a belt. It's the feminine approach [for those] who shy away from the traditional suit." Shop Investment Tailoring    Fairytale Details Tyler Joe "High-necks and puff sleeve blouses offer a romantic touch for the holidays with opulent [styles in] silk and florals," says Marie Ivanoff-Smith, the fashion director of Nordstrom. Kingham highlights the fairytale details from the runways of Molly Goddard and Ann Demeulemeester. "We saw lots of designers showing a couture level detail on styles that seemed to draw references from fairytales with lots of detailed embroidery and voluminous tulle dresses," Kingham says. She suggests styling feminine dresses with "a heavy combat boot to give a dark twist to a pretty look." (I called it dressing up as a baby at their baptism, but same.) Shop Fairytale Details    Statement Coats Tyler Joe Give your simple black coat a rest with this season's best in show: statement coats. All five buyers claim that loud outerwear is in, as seen at Marc Jacobs and Paco Rabanne. With animal prints, Kingham says she'll be styling them back with "a more muted look of black trousers and romantic pussy bow blouses." Alternatively, go the distance with an extra long overcoat. "What I love is a chic almost floor length coat in bright colours and I have my eye on either Rave Review's upcycled trench or Kenneth Ize's amazing woven version with fringes," says Petersson. For added warmth, get down with more insulation. Ivanoff-Smith says "a puffer in color, printed or faux leather is the perfect way to stay warm while making a statement. The key is to wear it layered over a feminine piece such as a dress or a skirt." You can also take a spin on the updated trench, according to Aiken. "I don't think I have ever met a trench I didn't like. Personal bias aside, designers gave us a reason to fall in love with new iterations this season, evolving by way of leather or sheer options." But if you're looking for a quieter statement, trust Erica Russo, Bloomingdale's vice president and fashion director. "I love an oversized sherpa silhouette like the ones from Max Mara in light camel, ivory or grey. It's the ultimate investment piece that will elevate any look from yoga pants, to denim or dresses" Shop Statement CoatsNovelty Knits Courtesy You don't have to tell us twice to wear a cozy sweater during winter, but Russo and Aiken encourage you to try a style that ventures into whimsy. "At Bloomingdale's we are loving chunky novelty knits," says Russo. This season, experiment with bright colors, fringe, and modern silhouettes like v-shaped shoulders. Use this as a layering opportunity for thin knits ideal for layering. "In the past, we relied on a simple black or white turtleneck but designers are now giving the staple a decorative update," says Aiken. "Printed mesh and fine intarsia knits add a graphic touch to a simple look; Style [them] under a slip or a wool trouser." Shop Novelty Knits    Tonal Dressing  Tyler Joe "Tonal dressing is the styling trick adopted [from] the streets to play with warm, tonal shades [from] head-to-toe," Aiken says. "It's an incredibly thoughtful approach to dressing- looking at how your sweater matches your skirt, how this matches your boot. The effect is something that looks incredibly chic and elegant." Ivanoff-Smith echoed the same sentiment. "We're seeing the resurgence of the brown palette in rich, monochromatic looks and through prints like heritage checks." Shop Tonal Dressing    Transitional Dresses Tyler Joe Still holding on to summer style? Consider the ease of a dress, but with thoughtful updates to accommodate the changing temps. "A midi length with long sleeves is perfect for transitional weather," says Ivanoff-Smith. Look for heavy fabrics like brocade or velvet, jeweled tones, and longer sleeves to wear with tights and boots. Shop Transitional Dresses     |
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